The Second City Section

Esch sur Alzette’s press fall into two categories from the outside looking in: negative and non-existent. The Grand-Duchy’s second city has made headlines for tragic reasons in the past months and appears to be in something of a thrall to a nascent gang culture that could cripple its reputation just as it should be beginning to prosper after years of neglect due to the decline of the coal and steel industries in Luxembourg. However, the rise of the nearby Belval centre means that Esch has to start offering up an alternative to the capital in terms of restaurants and nightlife that is free from the stigma currently attached by non-residents (and in truth, not helped by certain residents themselves). This is desirable for visitors, but is also an economic opportunity for the city itself. In terms of restaurants, there is no doubt that quality can be found, and that prices can be favourable when compared with Luxembourg City, even if variety is not in the same league. But what of the bars? In a preliminary visit, I visited four in attempt to get a feel if, not for the real Esch sur Alzette then for a small sample of what it offers. This is just a start, and Esch should not be judged solely on the four mentioned, although they are popular among locals.

The Old Castle, situated at 33, rue Dicks, has a feeling of being two places at once, the front being an almost typical Luxembourgish bar, the back evolving into a Breton style Creperie complete with nautical equipment on the walls that is standard in Brittany but is somewhat incongruous in a landlocked country far from the sea. Never mind. It’s a theme. Out the back, and down a staircase that is in no way friendly to the Disabled, is a beer garden covered by a rather ugly (though I assume retractable) tarpaulin. Unlike a fair few places in the city, English was neither heard in the venue, nor spoken by the staff and French is the dominant language. The front bar is dominated by high stools and tables and is laid out in such a way that one imagines the owners expect most people to stand, or are anticipating a rush in which space will be at a premium: a rush which, going on the evidence of a Friday night, is unlikely to ever happen.

Further down the same street, at number 29, is Mrs Sausages, the only English pub in Esch sur Alzette. This venue differs from the standard English pub in several ways. For one, it serves no draught beers whatsoever, preferring to rely on bottled and canned imports of ales, ciders and stouts. Furthermore, the décor and fittings are dominated by disco lights, three motorcycles placed in the front window and an abundance of Ikea furniture, each table bearing a laminated sign informing the customer that there is no table service. In fact, the feeling is more like that of a café rather than a bar with the proviso that they offer discounts during happy hour on Vodka Red Bull, and there is a function room located downstairs in the bar serving the full range of drinks from upstairs. This room feels like a garage and, like the motorcycles and disco balls upstairs, pays tribute to the premises’ previous incarnations as, err, a bike shop and a disco.

Mrs Sausages does not serve food, but clients are welcome to bring it in from elsewhere, as well as avail of free wifi. And, if it takes your fancy, enjoy a pot of genuine English tea while observing the bar’s younger customers taking advantage of the very competitively priced beers and spirits. While all staff speak English, the customer base is all local and Cool Britannia would appear to have never taken off in Esch. This is not intended as criticism, and Mrs Sausages is not quite like anywhere else in the whole of the Grand Duchy. It is popular in Esch: what else does it need to do?

Across the road from Mrs Sausages is the Diva Café, located at number 26 once again on Rue Dicks. When compared to the two previous establishments reviewed, this one has a more upmarket atmosphere, giving it a slightly poseur feeling that isn’t altogether appealing, although is not enough to condemn it either. The fittings and décor are similarly more stylish while maintaining a neutral sterility, and the staff can be described in the same way: fashionable but disinterested. The clientele are mainly twenty and thirtysomething couples and small groups and, without wishing to generalise too much, seem somewhat more affluent than those in other places. However the bar is comfortable and the atmosphere is not intimidating, while they also stock a range of wines and a comprehensive list of spirits although food is not available and it would take a braver person than I to ask the staff if they could bring food in! There are worse places to go, not just in Esch but in Luxembourg City as well.

Casablanca is situated on Rue de l’Alzette, the main pedestrian shopping street in Esch. The venue is big and fairly bright with well-sized windows through which one can watch the world go by while ambient mood music plays, and a terrace out on the street for when the weather is good. The décor could have gone one of two ways: one is jazzy and music based in homage to the film which shares the bar’s name. The other is an overdose of Arabian rugs and curtains in an attempt to catch the spirit of the Moroccan city. This bar chooses the former, which allows it to be bright and quite retro. There is also table service, which is the custom in Luxembourg, even when a venue is busy. The evening atmosphere in Casablanca is very much of the slice of life variety, underlining its status as a jack-of-all-trades establishment, while during the day it is something of an old man café. Casablanca is nothing special but there isn’t much wrong with it either. Like the other places visited in Esch, it is difficult to imagine remaining there for a whole evening.

The Old Castle, 33, rue Dicks, Esch sur Alzette. Tel: 26 54 09 49

Mrs Sausages, 29, rue Dicks, Esch sur Alzette.

Diva Cafe, 33, rue Dicks, Esch sur Alzette. Tel : 54 04 94

Casablanca, rue de l’Alzette, Esch sur Alzette.